Carlo Anselmo Restarts

A new chapter opens in the history of vermouth, Turin's D.O.C. aperitif which, as we know, was born right here more than two centuries ago, exactly in 1786 when Antonio Benedetto Carpano opened a shop under the arcades of Piazza Castello where he produced a white wine flavoured with dozens of herbs and spices. The name vermouth derives from the German term for artemisia, one of the plants most used in the recipe, and it was given by Carpano. Vermouth immediately became Turin's drink by definition: loved by the court, it boasts great admirers such as Cavour and Vittorio Emanuele. Anselmo was immediately recognised as an important and highly regarded company, so much so that it became a supplier of Casa Savoia as “one of the best producers of vermouth”, the Vermouth Rosso.

 

His story is emblematic. Carlo Anselmo was born in Murisengo, in the hills of Monferrato Alessandrino. His father Cesare moved soon to Turin where he opened several inns and a shop in the centre of town, at 37 Via Mazzini, to produce vermouth. Carlo took the reins and perfected the recipe for an excellent blend of spices and herbs based on Moscato di Canelli: Anselmo Vermouth was born. The beautiful historical C.Anselmo & C. label, dated 1854, began to appear among the rows of liqueurs in Turin's elegant patisseries. Anselmo then decided to expand and opened a proper factory in the suburbs, at Martinetto. In 1908 Carlo Anselmo died. His eldest daughter, Carola Alba, took the helm of the company, with increasing success: exports grew from 700,000 to over 3 million bottles worldwide. The factory was moved out of town, to None, a stone's throw from the railway to facilitate marketing. Then the 1929 crisis and the world war two marked the end of the great adventure.

 

"Turin has the hour of Vermouth, the hour when its face is coloured and its blood circulates faster and warmer. Then the schools pour clouds of children into the streets, crowds of workers come out of the factories, the tramcars pass by packed with people, the crews chase each other, the liquor shops crowd in...'

 

 

 

This beautiful description of “The hour of vermouth” in Turin perfectly captures the atmosphere of the city at aperitif time, a ritual deeply rooted in Turin's culture.

 

 

 

The quote is taken from “Il ventre di Torino”, a work by Edmondo De Amicis, an author best known for Cuore. In this passage, De Amicis describes how, as night falls, the city is transformed: the streets fill with students and workers, the traffic increases and the cafés and liquor shops become crowded, all united by the pleasure of a glass of vermouth.

 

 

 

Vermouth was born in Turin in 1786, thanks to Antonio Benedetto Carpano, and quickly became one of the city's iconic drinks. Even today, the Turin aperitif keeps this ritual alive, with historic venues and new establishments celebrating the vermouth tradition.

The 19th century: international consecration

 

During the 19th century, Turin became the world centre of vermouth production, thanks to historical brands such as: Carpano, Cinzano, Martini & Rossi, Gancia, Anselmo, Cora and Chazalettes.

 

These companies took vermouth beyond Italian borders, making it famous first in France and then worldwide.


The Turin aperitif and 'L' ora del Vermouth'

 

As early as the 19th century, the ritual of the aperitif was consolidated in Turin, which De Amicis describes in his work Il ventre di Torino. In those years, the first historic cafés were born, such as Caffè Mulassano, Caffè Torino, Caffè Platti and Baratti & Milano, where intellectuals, artists and politicians met to sip vermouth before dinner.

 

The Decline and Rebirth

 

During the 20th century, with the advent of new fashions and international drinks, vermouth consumption declined. However, the last 20 years have seen a rediscovery of artisanal vermouth, with small producers taking up the old recipes and experimenting with new variations.

 

Today, Turin celebrates its historic liqueur with dedicated events such as the Torino Vermouth Week.